Sivaleleke ku-tabloid nostalgia, sibheke esibukweni ama-dermal fillers nokuphila kwawo isikhathi eside.
“Ukhona-ke ushevu womthofu ezimonyoni?Okungenani ibala lakho lesikhumba lizoheha bonke abafana!”U-Natalie Paris no-Amy Atkinson ba-rap ku-“House of Holbein”, isithombe sika-Tony sika-Anna Skala sika-Hans Holbein.
Umlando uyazi ukuthi umgwaqo oya ebuhleni ugcwele izintambo, imigodi namatshe acijile angaqhuma isondo achithe imoto yesitimela.Ngokushesha ngemva kokushona kuka-Anne the Rock (wayengomunye wamakhosikazi ambalwa kaHenry VIII waseNgilandi ukuba asinde emshadweni), uMoya weSaturn, ingxube elula yamanzi, uviniga kanye ne-lead carbonate, nayo yacatshangelwa.Amakhrayoni aseVenice asemfashinini.Izwe lesikhumba esimhlophe.Ngawo-1700, odokotela babenikeza i-turpentine-i-solvent enobuthi ekhishwe e-resin yezihlahla eziphilayo, evame ukusetshenziswa njengendlela yokunciphisa upende-njenge-diuretic eyenza "iphunga elimnandi le-violet" emchameni.Ngemva kwesikhathi eside, lapho esebenza kuyi-Wizard of Oz, uJudy Garland oneminyaka engu-17 ubudala wakhuthazwa ukuba abheme amaphakethe amane kagwayi ngosuku.Kodwa ngiyaxolisa.
Manje, ngamandla aphelele esayensi, siyazi ukuthi kungcono ukungafaki umthofu ebusweni bakho, ungafutha okokuthambisa upende, futhi ubheme ngobuhle, nakuba ngingeke ngikuphike ukuthandwa kwe-nicotine.Emisungulweni eminingi yezokwelapha, ikakhulukazi uma isondelana nemikhiqizo yabathengi ngemva kokugunyazwa kwe-FDA, imiphumela yesikhathi eside izobonakala kuphela ngemva kokuba izinkulungwane zabantu ziyisebenzisa ngokukhululekile.
Umkhuba wobuhle oye wachaza izizukulwane zokugcina ama-dermal fillers, owaduma emitholampilo yesikhumba kanye nama-salon wobuhle cishe eminyakeni engu-25 edlule.Igama elithi "filler" livame ukusho umjovo wesikhashana we-hyaluronic acid osetshenziselwa ukugcwalisa kabusha i-nasolabial folds, isilevu, izindebe, izihlathi, nemigodi ye-lacrimal.Ukuhlonipha izakhiwo "zokuvuselela" ze-hyaluronic acid kwavela phakathi kosaziwayo kanye nezenhlalakahle, bese kusakazeka kubantu abavamile.Khona-ke, esikhathini esithile ekhulwini elidlule, saqala ukubona izithombe ze-pouty, ubuso obusontekile kuwo wonke ama-tabloid.“Kumelwe ukuba uyaguga,” kusho udokotela wangaleso sikhathi, ekholelwa ngobuqotho yonke into ebhalwe ephaketheni elinomshini wokugcwalisa.“Izinyanga eziyishumi nambili kuya kweziyishumi nesishiyagalombili,” kusho abanye.“Izinyanga eziyisithupha kuya onyakeni,” kusho abanye, namanje basakwenza.Esikhathini esiningi seminyaka engu-30 edlule, alukho ucwaningo oluzimele oluphonsele lesi simangalo inselele—kuze kube manje.
Ngo-2020, isazi sezimonyo kanye nomsunguli we-Victorian Cosmetic Institute, uDkt. Gavin Chan, wathumela ividiyo esiteshini sakhe se-YouTube ephikisa izinganekwane mayelana nokuqina kwama-fillers, ahlanganisa ukubukwa okumangazayo okungu-564,000.Ukuhlola kukaChen lolu daba kumane kwaqondana.“Esinye isiguli besifuna ukungimangalela ngoba izigcwalisi zaso zahlala isikhathi eside, zithi ngizosebenzisa [izigcwalisi] ezihlala njalo,” wangitshela.“Esinye isiguli besinomshini wokugcwalisa umgodi wokukhala izinyembezi.Sithole ukuthi usenesikhathi eside elapho.[Amehlo abo] ayebukeka evuvukele futhi ephukile,” kwase kuqala uphenyo.“Ngamthumela kudokotela oyi-cosmetic radiologist u-Mobin Master, owahlola i-MRI wathola ukuthi i-filler yayisekhona.”
Ucwaningo olusheshayo ngokubambisana no-Chan lukhuthaze u-Master ukuthi enze ucwaningo olunzulu yedwa.Ushicilele akutholile ku-Journal of the American Academy of Plastic Surgery ngoJulayi 2020 lapho aphetha khona ngokuthi amasiginali we-hyaluronic acid MRI ayekhona kuzo zonke iziguli eziyi-14 ezazingayitholanga i-hyaluronic acid esikhathini esidlule.Iminyaka emibili yokuskena iziguli ngemijovo.Esinye seziguli sagcina ukwelashwa nge-hyaluronic acid eminyakeni engu-12 edlule futhi isakhi samakhemikhali sisekhona.Imiphumela yalolu cwaningo oluncane inselele ngqo umqondo wokupakisha impilo.
"Kuze kube manje, wenze ama-MRIs akhethekile angaphezu kwe-100 ebusweni futhi wathola ukuthi iningi [iziguli zokugcwalisa] azizange zibe nomphumela iminyaka engaphezu kwemibili," kusho u-Chan ngocwaningo olwandisiwe luka-Master, "ikakhulukazi amehlo.ubuso."I-MRI ibonakala iyithuluzi eliwusizo lokulandelela i-alien hyaluronic acid, esiphelelwe yisikhathi.Ezithombeni, kubonakala njengendawo emhlophe ekhanyayo ekhipha isignali efanayo noketshezi.Futhi, ngaphandle uma ungumlingiswa we-Chase Crawford ohlelweni lwe-TV olushisa izikhotha ethi The Boys, awunaso isikhwama sokuphuza esifihlwe ebusweni bakho.
U-Chen wangitshela ngelukuluku le-Master's Newtonian.Mhlawumbe, sonke siyayikhumbula indaba kaSir Isaac Newton, owafaka inaliti ende yokuthunga esweni lakhe ukuze afunde ngezenzakalo zokukhanya nombala.Ukuhlinzwa kwenkosi kwakungeyona into edabukisayo: “Wacela othile ukuba amnikeze [i-hyaluronic acid],” kukhumbula uChen.“Wayeziskena njalo ezinyangeni ezintathu izinyanga ezingu-27.Ama-filler ahlala ezihlathini nasemihlathini yakhe.Kuhle kakhulu.”
Kodwa kwakungenzeka kanjani ukuthi iziqhwaga zemithi zingayiboni imikhiqizo yazo?Kubonakala kuxakile ukuthi inkampani efuna ukukhulisa ukuthengisa ikhuthaza amakhasimende ukuthi ayithenge kaningi nangentshiseko enkulu ngangokunokwenzeka.Ngisengcupheni yokucwila ozungu futhi ngihudulelwe kwalasha onodaka ngabameleli be-anti-vaxx kanye nabameli abahlukahlukene be-QAnon, nganquma ukubheka izifundo zomtholampilo zabakhiqizi abadumile bokugcwalisa i-hyaluronic acid: i-Allergan (umkhiqizi weJuvéderm), uGalderma (Restylane ).kanye noTeoksan (Teosial).U-Allergan uphawula ukuthi “Iziguli eziningi zidinga ukwelashwa okukodwa ukuze kube nemiphumela emihle yokunciphisa imibimbi, engathatha kusukela ezinyangeni ezingu-9 kuya onyakeni,” kuyilapho uGalderma waseLausanne encoma ukuthi “i-Restylane ingabonakala esibayeni se-nasolabial kuze kufike ezinyangeni ezingu-18.”umphumela ohlala njalo.”Ngokusho kwewebhusayithi ye-Teoxane, "ukwelashwa kwe-hyaluronic acid dermal filler akukona unomphela futhi ngokuvamile kuthatha izinyanga ezingu-22.".U-Chan wengeze ngokuthi, "Ukuphila isikhathi eside" kuzosuselwa kokubonakalayo.Ngokuvamile abasho ukuthi liyancibilika.”
Ngakho usichaza kanjani isigcwalisi esibonakala ku-MRI futhi singabonakali esigulini ngemva kwezinyanga ezingu-18?"Kulokho engikubone ku-MRI, ngicabanga ukuthi kukhona ukusabalala," kusho u-Chan.“Isigcwalisi esihlathini noma esilevu sibukeka sihlanzekile uma usisebenzisa okokuqala.Ngemva kwamasonto ambalwa, kuhluke ngokuphelele.Ngemva kwezinyanga ezimbalwa, sekuhlukile futhi.Mhlawumbe abantu bacabanga ukuthi isigcwalisi asihlali isikhathi eside.Isikhathi ngoba imiphumela yokuqala ayihlali isikhathi eside—iyaphela.”
Ukuchichima sekuyinkinga evamile phakathi kwabahambela isonto lobuhle, kusho uChan, ekubiza ngokuthi “ubhubhane oluchichimayo.”Uxoxa ngezindaba zeziguli ezifika ngezinye izikhathi ukuze kuqedwe izigcwalisi zazo bese kuthi uma inqubo isiqediwe, ifune ukuthi izigcwalisi zibuyiswe ngokushesha.“Sekuyiminyaka engu-10 bengabuboni ubuso babo bangempela, izihlathi, izindebe namehlo,” usho kanje."Ngifuna ukuchithwa kube nemfashini."
Nokho, lo mkhuba ungase udlondlobale.Ngasekuqaleni kwalo nyaka, u-Courteney Cox wavuma kwi-Sunday Times ukuthi wonke ama-filler akhe aphelile.Akuphelanga sikhathi esingakanani ngaphambi kokuthi uMolly May-Haig we-Love Island naye alahle imijovo yakhe, etshela i-Cosmopolitan ukuthi abantu bamqhathanisa ne-Family Guy's Quagmire.
Ngakho-ke, kufanele kube yini inqubo ekahle yokuba isiguli singagcwalisi ubuso ngokweqile?U-Chen unemibono ngempela."Okufanelekile, noma ngubani oke waba nama-filler ngaphambilini kufanele athole iskena," esho."Kungenzeka ukuthi esikhundleni sokugcwalisa, udinga ukuhlakaza futhi ususe ingxenye yokugcwaliswa okudala ngaphambi kokuthi sifake ukugcwaliswa okusha."I-Ultrasound ibonakala isebenzayo, nakuba ingasebenzi kahle, enye indlela.“Ngezinye izikhathi i-ultrasound ayikwazi ukusho ukuthi isigcwalisi esidala sihlangene yini nezicubu zobuso, futhi awukwazi [ukusichaza],” kuchaza u-Chan.
I-Profilo iyindlela emisha yakamuva kuma-hyaluronic acid fillers.Ikhiqizwe yinkampani yaseSwitzerland eyenza imithi i-Institut Biochimique SA (IBSA), u-Profilo waziwa ngokuthi “isixazululo se-bioremodeling”.U-Chan wangitshela ukuthi uhluke kanjani kuma-dermal fillers esiwabona kuze kube manje.“[Kuyi] into yokugcwalisa eshelela isikhumba,” esho.“Ngeke abe mkhulu kunalokho.”Ngakho-ke, kungacatshangwa ukuthi ukusungulwa kweSwitzerland ngeke kubangele ukukhukhumala ebusweni bakho, nakuba imiphumela yayo yesikhathi eside isazofundwa.Isikhathi sizofakazela konke.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Aug-31-2022